The Magic of Carpet Slippers

Exploring the Rich History of Moroccan Babouche Slippers with Selvedge Magazine

Bohemia founder Jenny takes readers on a vibrant journey into the world of iconic Moroccan babouche slippers in the latest issue of Selvedge Magazine. Explore the fascinating history, cultural significance, and modern-day charm of babouche slippers that continues to captivate and inspire.

The iconic babouche slipper is a familiar sight in the souks, or open air markets, of towns and cities across Morocco. Marrakech is home to the largest souks in the country, and crafts in kaleidoscopic colour line the narrow, snaking lanes of the medina. From hand knotted rugs to intricate filigree brass lamps, lustrous green Tamegroute pottery and mounds of richly scented spices, the old city is a dream destination for artists and designers seeking inspiration. Souk Smata is the area specifically dedicated to shoemaking and here it is possible to observe leather artisans ply their craft in tiny workshops surrounded on all sides by shops full to bursting with slippers and sandals in a myriad of designs.

What Are Moroccan Babouche Slippers?

Moroccan slippers are most commonly known as babouche, the French term which is thought to stem from the Arabic 'babush' or Persian 'paposh', meaning foot covering. Locally these shoes are referred to as balgha. In Darija, the Moroccan Arabic dialect, the word balgha 'you will get to where you are going' is characteristically descriptive in meaning.

Babouche vary greatly in design but are typically a flat, backless leather slipper and extremely comfortable to wear. It is customary to leave shoes at the door when entering a Moroccan home and this mule style shoe is easy to slip on and off without the fuss of buckles and laces. The simple, round toe babouche are crafted from sheep leather which is pliable and super soft, making them ideal for use as an indoor slipper. The traditional pointed design is more often worn as an outdoor shoe and is a classic men's style. Like many of Morocco's crafts, designs are often area specific according to the materials available and the local customs and traditions. Tafraout, in the south of Morocco, is the source of the Berber (Amazigh) ldoukan babouche, a highly decorative shoe adorned with strikingly bold and colourful, embroidered geometric patterns. This shoe is different in that it has a heel and a firm rubber sole, designed as it is for rural villagers to be able to navigate the rocky paths of the Atlas Mountains.

The Craftsmanship Behind Moroccan Babouche Slippers

Fes and Marrakech are the primary centres of shoe production in Morocco due to their proximity to the centuries-old tanneries which have been situated in their midst since medieval times, making them some of the oldest tanneries in the world. The hides are cured using traditional techniques, organic materials and natural, plant based dyes. The odour of leather tanned in this way is distinctive but not unpleasant, although a visit to the tanneries themselves can be quite a powerful olfactory experience! Like most crafts in Morocco, leather production and shoemaking are generational arts and taught under the guidance of the Maalem, or master artisan.

The making of babouche involves many steps and in most small ateliers there are usually a number of artisans each working on a different stage of the production. Once the leathers are collected from the tannery they are sorted and laid out for the patterns to be placed and the individual pieces cut from each hide with an eye to minimising waste. The dyes are applied by hand and the leathers left to dry in the hot African sun, on rooftops or along the walls of cobbled streets. Next, the individual pieces are stitched together by hand in well practised sequence. Most of this work is done by men but women are employed to do some of the finer decorative work such as stitching beads and sequins onto ornamented 'cherbil' babouche. Female artisans traditionally work from home, juggling childcare, cooking and cleaning, with earning an income from their handicrafts.

It is heart warming to see that the authentic babouche remains an integral part of the culture and dress code for Moroccan families. For men the balgha pointed shoe in bright yellow or white is worn for religious festivals and important celebrations such as weddings, while women will wear more elaborate styles, often with uppers heavily embroidered in gold or silver thread.

Babouche Slippers in Modern Fashion: Tradition Meets Innovation

Despite being named in 2016 by Vogue Magazine as the 'it' shoe, the babouche has reassuringly remained immune to the vagaries of fast fashion and continues to be as relevant today as over centuries past. There has been criticism of some luxury fashion houses over cultural appropriation for introducing babouche style shoes into their collections, without any acknowledgement of the original source of the design, and charging exorbitant prices for them.

In recent years it has been refreshing to see a new generation of young Moroccan artists and designers reinterpreting traditional style icons, such as the babouche slipper, with great humour and inimitable style. Hassan Hajjaj, the British Moroccan contemporary artist who is based between London and Marrakech, is the foremost example of this. The V&A Museum has in its collection a pair of babouche designed by Hajjaj and made in Marrakech; they feature faux Louis Vuitton fabric with a green Nike tick.

In all their glorious profusion, from intricately hand painted designs to African wax cloth prints and kitsch upholstery fabrics, leathers of every hue and hairy goat skin or fluffy sheepskin, the babouche slipper is here to stay.

Discover our collection of Moroccan Babouche Slippers.
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